The Onsen
July 2008

By Sassy

Entry Five

Indoor Onsen

Bananas and coffee, breakfast of champions. I was surprised to see butter right out of the fridge was still easily to spread on my muffin. This morning I watched in silent amazement as pictures of violent riots flashed through news stations. This wasn't the news we get at home...

This time around we would visit an Onsen (hot spring) in Tokyo. Public baths are a popular past time in Japan and I was assured that the experience would leave me dreaming of a return trip.

They weren't lying.

At first I was uncomfortable with the thought, afraid of being the only white woman there. Men and women are separated, and I didn't want to be sitting alone and feeling awkward. Fortunately, we scoured up another blond Canadian who was living in Tokyo. She proved talkative and interesting, perfect company for such an event. A regularly participant, she offered to be my guide to proper manners.

We took the monorail, sitting in the very front. Being mechanically controlled, there is nothing blocking the view. It feels like a subdued roller coaster ride through Tokyo - turning around buildings, over streets, parks and carnivals, quietly zooming along the harbor.

Approaching the large wooden building housing the onsen. I noticed a sign on the side:

Onsen Pet Resort

As soon as we entered the building, we took off our shoes and placed them into shoe-cubbies, just like we used to do in elementary school. From here we joined the line to pay our $40 entrance fee and were given a bracelet that held a numbered key and barcode. Next we choose a style of yukata from a selection of 12, and pick our colored sash. A yukata is a casual kimono, great for summer, and often worn as a robe at onsens.

We separated from the men to change, the numbered key leading us to our locker. Stripping down to bare skin, we placed our belongings in the locker and put on the yukata. My friend explained that the lines at the neck should be even, and my yukata wrapped around tight.

"There's a trick to doing the sash right, you want it as even and thick as possible, while making a clean attractive and even bow in the back. There are rules for each rule in Japan, if you really want to get into it. Like how to properly hold your hand while tying the bow. Let me help you."

As instructed, I raised my arms. She took the black sash after measuring it out and wrapping it around me. "Most tie their bow in the front, so you don't want to make the sash too tight. You'll have to be able to slide it around to the back." I looked over my shoulders, wondering if I could catch a peek of how the bow was tied.

Instead I caught site of a young Japanese lady falling apart in a fit of silent giggles. I gave her a broad smile, and she winked and gave me a thumbs up. "Very pretty," she said with difficulty. I nodded a thankful gesture and smiled sheepishly.

Wow, so this is what it feels like to be a complete newb in a foreign country. The lady primly turned around and floated out of the room with her beautifully tied sash swaying lightly. Definitely not in Kansas Dorothy.

Onsen Main Hall

Here people of all kinds indulged in all sorts of pleasures. The first thing to catch my eye was the plentiful food options: Udon, Sushi, Satays, Teryiaki, Deserts, Kakigori, Alcohol. Children played games that involved shooting arrows and throwing ninja stars to win prizes. After changing, no one is expected to carry cash, so the barcode on your wrist is scanned whenever a purchase is made. On the way out, you pay before being allowed to leave the building. A small stage in the main dining hall had traditional performances and little kabuki plays.

After enjoying a few drinks, we parted with the men again, to enter the baths. Upon entering another change room, two towels and sealed hair ties were handed to us by an attendant. Placing our yukata into the locker and taking the smaller towel, we entered the shower area nude. A great deal of the women were older, and unashamed of their bodies. Some women held their towel over the lower half of their body, others covered their entire front when walking.

The shower area here was a mix of the modern and traditional styles, modern convenience with wooden esthetic. Taking the shower nozzle and a bit of soap, the seat is cleaned. Sitting down everyone takes their time carefully washing themselves. Shampoo, Conditioner, Body Wash and facial wash are available for use.

From there you enter the indoor baths. There are about 6, each a different temperature. She leads me to one that's a comfortable temperature for her. Sitting down the hot water came up to our necks. I asked her how she felt living in Japan.

Outdoor Onsen

"Its great, but it can be hard to meet people. The Japanese are very conscientious about being uncomfortable, or making people uncomfortable. Feeling socially at home is a high priority. People hang around the same circles, go to the same places, all their lives."

After a few minutes we got up and walked outside. The water was much hotter here. The rising steam felt wonderful traveling through the lungs, and it gave a mysterious mist to the rocky pools of water.

We sat in the a hotter pool, moving to rocks when the heat was a bit unbearable. Once my pale skin turned healthy shade of pink, we placed our towels on a bench and sat under the trees.

In the midst of conversation, I mentioned reading about commercial places available only to locals. She told a story where she tried to enter a restaurant and had the door slammer in her face. I never saw that side of Tokyo.

After soaking in the water a little while longer we went back to towel down and fetch our robes. This time I decided to tie my own sash, and managed to do a reasonably good job. We re-entered the main area and sat down for a bowl of hot soup and cold drinks.

I returned to our home that night, extremely relaxed and drowsy. Eager to go to sleep, I went right for the bed, where the maid had neatly lain out my freshly ironed shirt. This was quite the feat, as the shirt was purchased wrinkled, and had a chemical agent in the fabric meant to keep it wrinkled. Must habe been a lot of work. Heh.

My second visit to an onsen was in Hakone. The volcanically active land has created a local industry of onsens, and visitors coming to view Mt. Fuji.

It was amazing to see so many beautiful rolling hills of emrald trees. To leave the maze of stone and smog and find yourself looking and soft rolling mountians of wilderness is jarring. Driving along steep and winding roads, we'd catch tiny waterfalls trickeling out of the mountain side.

We drove up and up the widing mountain side into a small town. Once the car was parked we paid a quick visit to the cleansing fountain before entering the little village to ejoy a meal at a little restaurant favoured by locals.

This tiny establishment was manned by an older man and woman. Seats surrounded the bar/sushi counter, and a few tables stood at the side. In the back was a traditional eating area, where diners could kneel while enjoying their food.

We ordered shashimi, fried chicken, and vegtable dishes. The first thing to come out was the crab salad. Fished near by and delivered daily, it was increadibly fresh. In fact, it was probably the best crab I've ever tased. Everyone at the table moaned with pleasure and discussion came to a hault. When we tried to order more, but they explained they were out. When locals book they preorder, and the crab salad is their most popular item.

Looking out the window to my left, I saw an alleyway, piles of gorgeous sake barrels wrapped and waiting for pick up and disposal. I wanted to take some empty barrels home, but since they're partially made of straw, getting them through customs would never happen.

The fried chicken was equally as spectacular. Such a simple dish, you suspect that it can only be so good. This blew away anything I had eaten in the southern US.

As everyone tried to find room for the last few bites of food, I excused myself to the washroom. For the first time in my entire stay, I found myself looking down at a Japanese toilet. The narrow, long bowl is placed right in the floor. I stared down awkwardly for a few moments.

I have to... squat?

I considered waiting until we reached another location. If things went horribly wrong... well I'd have to lock myself in until morning. I noticed a window at my side, and looked out half expecting a little Japanese man with a camera, and was releaved to see bushes and a fence. Being a huge fan of hentai, I have often seen the depiction of young women urinating.

Taking a deep breath I whispered: "When in Rome..."